The article was originally featured in Atelier Magazine.
Well, it’s his day too. While everyone gazes at the bride, it takes the creative eye and experience of Raghavendra Rathore to understand and create the groom’s side of the story. Kuhu Kochar talks to the ace fashion designer about adding a touch of royalty to men’s wedding wear.
His own wedding outfit was a family heirloom made in the twenties – an achkan first worn by his grandfather, then his father, followed by Raghavendra Singh Rathore himself.
“The fact it could still be worn in contemporary times reinstalled my faith in the timeless classic look,” says the luxury mogul. “Those aesthetics have become a part of me, thanks to my roots.”
When it comes to incorporating traditional royal elegance with chic modern interpretations, no one does it better than this designer, whose achievements are as vast as architecture to designing uniforms, interiors and even the cover page of national dailies.
From his hometown of Jodhpur, Rajasthan, to the corridors of Parsons School of Design, New York, Raghavendra Rathore’s varied worlds make a marked appearance in his design sensibility, which is classic, elegant and understated. He talks to Atelier about grooming grooms.
Having worked with Oscar de la Renta and DKNY, how did international exposure shape your vision and design sensibilities?
I learnt to emphasize more on the craft than the ethics of fashion. Ironically, exposure to the west is key in helping a designer realize the value of rich textiles and craftsmanship in India. A greater perspective of understanding design and colour became the genesis for revitalizing the cultural fortune back home.
You come from a royal family. Was it difficult for your family to come to terms with you taking up designing as a profession?
I think the recognition from my family came at a very early stage – there was never any curtailing of talent or pushing in the opposite direction. My higher studies started on a different path and ended differently, that is, beginning from robotics and culminating with fashion design. So my career choice was a natural transition and both my parents supported my dreams. There was definitely some debate and discussion, but I think that happens between any child and the family when such a crucial decision is being taken. The career choice was incidental.
The clothes you design reflect Rajasthani charms. Is this a conscious effort or does it come to you naturally?
The underlying DNA of all my collections comes from the epicentres of rich heritage that India has to offer – cities like Jodhpur, Jaipur, Mysore and Hyderabad have enormous amounts of inspiration to be cultivated into the products we design and create every day.
The traditional bandgala has become your signature garment; what about it makes it so special?
The Jodhpuri bandgala jacket has been worn in Jodhpur for over a century by families from a lineage of rich heritage and traditions. The versatility of the outfit and the re-adaptation of the old style with the slick-looking bandgala that we meticulously customise to individual clients make it quite special indeed. I believe strongly in this product and want to make the bandgala India’s ambassador of heritage overseas with its versatility and growing acceptability as a staple part of any man’s wardrobe, be it New Delhi or New York, Mumbai or London.
You don’t experiment much; is ‘playing safe’ your mantra?
Clean cuts and classic shapes are my style. We are a fashion business brand and even peers like Ralph Lauren and other legendary designers are focused on the business side of fashion and in creating products that are more retail-friendly.
Is fashion all about inspiration and creativity or does the salability factor rule a designer’s collection?
First of all, there has to be love for what you are doing. Like any creative person, if there is no joy in making your creation, the point is lost. It then becomes mechanical. The business of fashion is one sphere with creativity being another. I have always believed in the metamorphosis of idea to sketch to final creation – I want to see my creations being worn and hence have always believed in salability. In fact, the value that is added to inspiration and creation is what is called salability.
When designing a trousseau, what inspires you?
I’m not sure there is any specific inspiration when it comes to designing a trousseau. Most people feel that a designer needs something that inspires them – but in reality you don’t consciously go out hunting for what will inspire you; it happens if it does and if not, so be it. You need to see the client, understand them, their needs. It’s but natural that everyone aspires to look their best for their wedding and they come to you because they have the faith that you will make them look that way. I think that’s reason enough to design something that caters to this segment. Again, since the ethos of the brand is classic, simplicity and elegance there is never a dearth of inspiration – it’s timeless.
Have men become more conscious dressers these days?
Most men of all times have always been avid dressers; however, it is probably now that this statement is getting acknowledged amongst the masses.
If you had to pick a wardrobe essential for a groom, what would it be?
A knee-length achkan or a bandgala.
Men face a crisis when it comes to accessorising. What is your advice?
Definitely go the accessory way! We tend to underestimate the man of today – he is quite intelligent in choosing how to accessorise his look. However, do keep it simple and do not over-accessorise – use accessories to enhance your look. For instance, a pocket scarf completes the look of dressing up a tailored bandgala for a more formal setting while the absence of one can dress it down immediately.
So far you have been known as a menswear designer. Recently, you launched Blue Mantra, to be the complete solution for a woman’s wardrobe. Why this switch?
We have focused on menswear for more than 15 years now, establishing our trademark products like the bandgala, breeches and achkan. Simultaneously, however, we have always catered to a niche women’s wear market. Now that we have corporatised the men’s module to quite an extent, it is a logical step for us to move into a larger women’s wear domain than what we currently work with. Blue Mantra is a wardrobe solution for women focusing on the traditional and ethnic look. It will not only complement the traditional men’s couture we have on offer but also be a separate niche where one can choose anything traditional, be it for a wedding trousseau, traditional pooja, as a sister or mother of a bride or groom, or a classic sari to be worn for a special evening out.
Choosing one’s wedding attire is a task. What should one keep in mind while picking up one’s wedding dress?
Comfort coupled with style – it’s your day, you should never feel physically uncomfortable or conscious of what you look like. Choose something that complements your personality. Everybody has his or her own style and preferences. Make sure the end product is something you should enjoy wearing and feel good about in years to come.
Do you often have to deal with a situation in which the groom wants something, but you know something else will suit him or is in fashion?
No doubt you have to design keeping your client in mind, that’s the beauty of customisation. I think it’s only logical to listen to your client and understand their requirements; after all it’s their wedding. If the client’s demand does not look good or does not feel right, I would never advise it. To be honest though, our look is classic and most clients who are looking for that understated elegance and simplicity tend to trust and have confidence in us; so such issues are quite unlikely.
Before we let you go, what according to you makes a man a great husband?
I really don’t believe in a set list or criteria – each relationship is so different that it would be unfair to label the dos and don’ts or rights and wrongs. Marriage is about companionship. In the end, it’s each couple to their own – do your part to the best.